In the windy west of Denmark, lies a little roadside inn.
This is a story about a visit to Mr. P. Cunningham and this most extravagant venture into the best of hospitality, food and wine.
Our visit Henne Kirkeby Kro was planned in good time as a destination, a 100 km detour on our 10 day road trip. A detour because we were on vacation and had heard much good about this place.
The old Inn lies next to a country road going to to Henne Strand with its beautiful and windy beaches to the Atlantic ocean. It is renovated fairly recently and looks fanatically maintained. Inside it is Scandinavian in the most utilitarian but still very warm, modern and cosy style.
Paul Cunningham, head chef and infant terrible. Originally from Essex, UK but has lived some 20 years in Denmark, many of these in Copenhagen running the kitchens of famous kitchens, The Paul, Søllerød Kro and Formel B. Also author on several cookbooks, always with an eye for aesthetics, quality and a little touch of eccentricity.
This is our dinner:
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Individual decor for each table |
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Bubble’s from Francis Boulard, obliterate the last strains of cabriolet driving. |
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Olive and Peach. |
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Radish, yoghurt |
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Bacon and cacao mustard |
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Pigs ears |
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Chorizo pimento |
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Asparagus mormor, hay cheese. |
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The full assembly |
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Keith moon (The bread) and fresh lemon herb floral butter |
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Olive oil for me |
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2011 Alabriño, Bodegas Fefinanes |
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Princess has a fresh tomato, pear mint and pine salad |
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Limfjørd Oyster, Oyster leaf |
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2012 Mâcon-Verzé. Domaine Leflaive |
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2013 Ekam Castell D’Encus (remembering the 2011 from Mugaritz) |
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Mr. Paul Cunningham and the Princess… (Tip: follow him) |
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Scallop and roe. Artichoke & Olive |
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2012 Riesling, Ecker-Eckhof |
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Lemon Sole, ramson leaf. Lemon confit |
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Asparagus, smoked hollandaise. Lemon thyme |
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2007 L’Arcione La Tunella colli Orientali del Friuli |
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Lamb breads, mint’ed peas (Bouchee a’ la Henne) |
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2010 Hacienda Monasterio |
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Varde Ådal lamb. Aubergine and mountain herbs |
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Chézatte, Sancerre |
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6 cheeses |
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2011 Carte d’Or. Baumard |
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Rhubarbe, vinagre and confit ginger |
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Musscat Ruthergien Campbell’s |
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?? |
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Milk, Jerusalem artichoke and dandelion root |
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Laphroaig toffee and lemon meringue pie |
We go to bed shortly hereafter, full stomachs, happy and fortunate to have been guests @ Henne Kirkeby Kro this evening. Some dishes were spectacular and others simply excellent.
The wines were more classical the we had seen recently, all joyful and matching without question. Service was impeccable skilled, friendly and flawless.
I also noted that this was a happy place were you more frequently could imagine interaction between guests and some tables being louder than others, a very perfect ambiance for a happy evening in the middle of somewhere.
A visit definitely worth a detour.
Always wonderful to re-visit the meals and we do need to plan our return trip. The Princess : )
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Suggestion: http://www.vilajoya.com/en/cuisine/2-michelin-star-restaurant/#.U42BEGBOVjw
The shrimp girl 😉
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Villa Joya is saved on the long lost of todo's thank you shrimp, ham and pineapple girl 😉
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